The Writers’ Route along the new SS640

PORTO EMPEDOCLE (AG)

We begin in Porto Empedocle and the unforgettable locations described in Andrea Camilleri’s novels, starting with the Scala dei Turchi: a spectacular cliff face overlooking the sea, along the coast of Realmonte, just a stone’s throw from the ‘cathedral of salt’ (carved out of a rock salt mine) featuring sculptures, bas-reliefs, holy water fonts and sacred furnishings. In the town centre, we recognise the ‘Vigata’ created by the Master’s pen, namely the most famous town in the Inspector Montalbano saga: Marina di Girgenti, where the majestic Tower of Charles V stands out – the setting for the events of “The Forgotten Massacre”, another of his novels – and where Luigi Pirandello spent his childhood.

AGRIGENTO

Mentioning Pirandello takes us straight to the rich territory of Agrigento, where myth, history, archaeology and literature merge: from the legendary Contrada Caos, home to his birthplace, to the historic centre of Girgenti, where one expects to encounter at any moment the memorable characters who populate his works, perhaps whilst visiting the Lucchesiana Library, the Church of Itria (which witnessed the wedding of the writer and Antonietta Portulano), the family home, the ‘Pirandello’ Theatre and all the recognisable views amongst the alleys, squares and courtyards of his literary settings. The Cathedral of San Gerlando, on the other hand, is the setting for the ‘Montelusa’ imagined by Pirandello and later revisited by Camilleri, and for a crucial scene in Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s “The Leopard”, which takes place at the top of the bell tower.

Before continuing along the Writers’ Trail, the route veers off towards the legendary Kolymbethra Garden, in the Valley of the Temples. Situated between the Temple of the Dioscuri and the Temple of Vulcan, this garden of Greek origin is mentioned by Pirandello in a descriptive passage. Finally, taking the turn-off for Rupe Atenea, you can follow the path leading to Baron Agnello’s country residence, amidst barns, olive groves and fields that evoke the childhood haunts of Simonetta Agnello Hornby and the novel “Un filo d’olio”.

PALMA DI MONTECHIARO (AG)

To discover one of the sources of inspiration for “The Leopard” and enjoy a sweet treat, you need to head to Palma di Montechiaro and visit the wonderful Benedictine Monastery, where the cloistered nuns prepare the famous almond biscuits, also known as ‘Ricci del Gattopardo’ and made famous worldwide by the novel. Even today, through the sturdy bars of the ancient ‘foundling wheel’, the nuns hand out these sweet treats to anyone who asks.

FAVARA (AG)

Staying a while in the Agrigento hinterland, the Writers’ Route offers the chance to discover the charm of the inland villages, which have been transformed by innovative urban regeneration projects and have thus become of great interest. This is the case with Favara, the birthplace of the writer Antonio Russello, whose most run-down neighbourhoods have been turned into the Farm Cultural Park: an unmissable open-air museum of contemporary art.

RACALMUTO (AG)

The itinerary continues towards Racalmuto to pay homage to its most illustrious citizen, Leonardo Sciascia, along the main street, with his customary cigarette between his fingers: at least that is how he is depicted in the monument designed by Giuseppe Agnello. Among the many places of interest in the town, from the Chiaramontano Castle to the Regina Margherita Theatre, the Leonardo Sciascia Foundation stands out: a former power station elegantly restored, it has become a symbolic destination for the writer’s fans and scholars. Finally, just outside the town centre, the Sican tombs known as the Grotte di Fra Diego La Matina — mentioned by Sciascia in his novel “Morte dell’inquisitore” — are easily reached, situated near the countryside where he loved to retreat to devote himself to writing and meet friends.

MONTEDORO (CL)

Part of the Caltanissetta district, the municipality of Montedoro is the birthplace of Angelo Petyx and Louise Hamilton Caico, two prominent figures in the Sicilian literary scene who feature along the Writers’ Trail. Petyx (Montedoro 1912–1997) was a writer, poet, anti-fascist and partisan, best known for his novel The Occupied Mine, which refers to the local Nadurello Mine, adjacent to the Zolfara Museum (dedicated to him); Caico (Nice, 1861–1927), on the other hand, was an Anglo-Irish noblewoman who lived in the village for over sixteen years, in what is now the House-Museum, and was the author of Sicilian Ways and Days and a substantial photographic archive.

CALTANISSETTA

As we reach the end, the Writers’ Trail takes us to Caltanissetta, described as “Little Athens” by Sciascia himself. A veritable cultural hotbed, the city was the birthplace of figures such as Piermaria Rosso di San Secondo, a great playwright and author of “Marionette, che passione!”. His birthplace is located in the Santa Lucia district. The circle of local intellectuals also includes the poet Stefano Vilardo and the politician and journalist Emanuele Macaluso.

To find out more, visit the official “Strada degli Scrittori” website.