Riesi, the village of the sulphur miners
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In the heart of central Sicily, as we travel through the Salso Valley in the province of Caltanissetta, we discover a place steeped in ancient charm, which tells the story of its identity from prehistory to the present day: we are in Riesi, a town known until the 18th century as ‘Altariva’, named after its modern founder, Baron Pietro Altariva. Also known as the “village of the sulphur miners”, due to its long history of sulphur mining, Riesi commemorates this arduous trade with the Monument to the Sulphur Miner, a work by the Riesi-born sculptor Onofrio La Leggia, which depicts miners pushing wagons laden with heavy sulphurous ore. What remains of the facilities and the Trabia-Tallarita Mines can be visited on the outskirts of the village, towards Sommatino (the neighbouring municipality), whilst the fascinating Sulphur Mines Museum, which reconstructs the production chain and the socio-economic aspects of the industry, is housed in the former Palladio power station.
A tour of the area around Riesi offers further surprising discoveries, starting with the evocative rock site known as the ‘Riesi Caves’: this is a typical Sicilian necropolis of small caves, an important testament to prehistoric settlement in the area. Another place worth visiting is the Monte degli Ulivi complex, owned by the Waldensian Church: designed in the 1960s by the architect Leonardo Ricci, this building complex remains one of the most original examples of contemporary architecture in Sicily.
Strolling through the streets of the historic centre, however, we can admire a series of picturesque views and iconic buildings, such as the spectacular stone staircase leading to the Church of San Giuseppe, the Church of the Madonna della Catena (17th century), dedicated to the town’s patron saint, and Piazza D’Antona, with its monument to the senator of the same name. The peaceful atmosphere, typical of a ‘day trip out of town’, invites you to take a seat at the tables outside the cafés and have a natter with the locals, who reveal the truest spirit of inland Sicily, inviting you to return during festive periods, when you can experience the events most cherished by the community: Carnival, Holy Week and, of course, the festivals celebrating local specialities.
These festivals are the best opportunity to sample the traditional festive sweets (mastazzòla, vurciddràta, cuddirèddri and guastèddri) and the region’s culinary delights, characterised by the flavours of the countryside, where wheat, vegetables, olive oil and, above all, the renowned Riesi DOC wine – appreciated all over the world – are produced. Did your trip to Riesi impress you? Come and discover the other towns in the central-southern hinterland that are part of the “Sicilia di Mezzo” tourism project!
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