The island of Ustica, Italy’s first Marine Protected Area
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Did you know that the island of Ustica, in the province of Palermo, is Italy’s first Marine Protected Area? A little gem in the heart of the Mediterranean, just wild enough, a paradise for marine flora and fauna to be discovered whilst diving: breathtaking seabeds, sandy and pebbly coves, caves, iridescent colours and crystal-clear water. These are the features that make the island proud to celebrate such an important recognition, first awarded in 1986. The must-see spots on Ustica? Start with Cala Sidoti, on the western side, a spot particularly suitable for children due to its shallow waters; move on to the Scogli Piatti, where you can stretch out in the sun, and the Piscina Naturale, a pool of crystal-clear water nestled within the cliffs beneath the Punta Cavazzi Lighthouse. A little-visited and easily accessible pebble beach is Punticedda; whilst, in the northern part, near the Prehistoric Village of the Faraglioni, lie the coves of Curruggio Beach. Artefacts from this area are on display at the ‘Padre Carmelo Seminara’ Municipal Archaeological Museum and at the museum in Torre Santa Maria.
The Ustica Marine Protected Area can also be enjoyed on a boat trip exploring the sea caves: the Blue Cave, the Green Cave, the Pastizza Cave – rich in ancient stalactites – the Barche Cave, where fishermen used to take shelter during storms, and the Gold Cave, with its glittering walls. Whilst the Cipree Cave offers the spectacular sight of stalactites clinging to the hanging roots of trees, Punta dell’Arpa provides a 35-metre dive for experienced divers, allowing them to explore reefs covered in red gorgonians. These places bring the myth of Ustica – the ‘Island of the Sorceress Circe’ – to life even today, evoking classical legends and dreamlike landscapes.
For those who love walking and the trails that criss-cross the Isola di Ustica Nature Reserve, we recommend exploring the volcanic slopes, discovering, for example, the Mezzogiorno Trail: the route that starts at the Bourbon-era Torre S. Maria and reaches Punta Cavazzi. On a hike, you can also visit Rocca della Falconiera, an early Christian necropolis with several underground tombs (3rd century BC); or follow the Forest Trail, in the northern part of the island, in the footsteps of the charcoal burners. Looking for alternatives to hiking? Romantic donkey rides that wind through the village streets before joining the old mule tracks, or cycle routes – bikes can be hired at the harbour.
Has all that exercise worked up an appetite? Satisfy your hunger by sampling the Slow Food Presidia (Ustica lentils) and the mouth-watering Pizza Usticese, made with tomato sauce, anchovies, garlic and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs, all accompanied by the island’s fine wines, including a sweet Zibibbo to round off the meal. When is the best time to visit Ustica, apart from during religious festivals? The second Sunday in September, when the Festival of the Sea and the Marine Protected Area is celebrated!
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