{"id":65043,"date":"2022-06-22T07:38:08","date_gmt":"2022-06-22T05:38:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/?post_type=itinerario&p=65043"},"modified":"2025-11-17T16:49:10","modified_gmt":"2025-11-17T15:49:10","slug":"route-du-thon-de-retour","status":"publish","type":"itinerario","link":"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/route-du-thon-de-retour\/","title":{"rendered":"Route du thon de retour"},"content":{"rendered":"

Les <\/span>madragues de l\u2019aller<\/b><\/a>, c’est-\u00e0-dire <\/span>les premi\u00e8res o\u00f9 le thon arrive de l’Atlantique<\/b>, sont situ\u00e9es dans le <\/span>nord<\/b> de la Sicile<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>et \u00e9taient actives d’avril \u00e0 juin. Ensuite, les poissons, en passant par Messine, descendent vers le sud-est, entre juin et ao\u00fbt, avant de regagner l’oc\u00e9an. C’est pourquoi on trouve dans ce coin de la Sicile les madragues de thon “de retour” : parce que <\/span>les thons d’ici retournent<\/b> dans les eaux glac\u00e9es de l’oc\u00e9an.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Nous pouvons suivre les derni\u00e8res \u00e9tapes, depuis le continent, de cet ancien et dangereux voyage du thon. <\/span>Vues \u00e0 couper le souffle, plages des Cara\u00efbes, vieux villages de p\u00eacheurs.<\/b> Vous croirez entendre encore le <\/span>cialoma<\/span><\/i>, l’ancien chant des p\u00eacheurs de thon siciliens. \u00cates-vous pr\u00eat ?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Lors de ce voyage de Messine \u00e0 l’Atlantique, la premi\u00e8re madrague de retour fut la <\/span>Tonnara di Terrauzza<\/b>, \u00e0 Syracuse. Aujourd’hui, il ne reste que quelques ruines du b\u00e2timent du XVIIIe si\u00e8cle, mais le paysage est incroyablement \u00e9vocateur (sans parler de la mer cristalline dans laquelle on peut se baigner).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Plus au sud, vous rencontrerez <\/span>la tonnara d’Avola<\/b>, aujourd’hui en assez bon \u00e9tat de conservation et abritant un petit club de voile. Oui, ce m\u00eame Avola, c\u00e9l\u00e8bre pour ses <\/span>amandes <\/b>appel\u00e9es “<\/span>pizzuta<\/b>” et son <\/span>Nero d’Avola<\/b>. La tonnara (madrague) est situ\u00e9e dans le vieux village de Marina d’Avola, connu pour ses plages et ses restaurants et pubs.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Nous continuons notre voyage plus au sud. La prochaine madrague est parfaitement restaur\u00e9e et fait partie de ces endroits \u00e0 voir au moins une fois dans sa vie : la <\/span>tonnara di Vendicari<\/b>. Pour y arriver, il faut s’immerger dans la nature de l’<\/span>oasis de faune de Vendicari<\/b><\/a>. <\/span>En vous promenant dans le maquis m\u00e9diterran\u00e9en, vous rencontrerez d’abord des zones humides, appel\u00e9es ici “pantani” (marais), o\u00f9 de nombreux <\/span>oiseaux migrateurs<\/b> (et autres) trouvent refuge. Continuez et vous verrez, de loin, des <\/span>piliers de pierre<\/b> qui s’avancent dans <\/span>une mer bleue cristalline<\/b> : c’est la madrague. Vous pouvez l’atteindre, la contourner et la photographier. Si c’est l’\u00e9t\u00e9, d\u00e9tendez-vous enfin avec une baignade rafra\u00eechissante dans les eaux non contamin\u00e9es de la r\u00e9serve.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c0 quelques kilom\u00e8tres de l\u00e0, nous arrivons \u00e0 la tonnara (madrague) la plus importante de la zone sud-est du point de vue historique: <\/span>la tonnara di Marzamemi<\/b><\/a>, un splendide village de p\u00eacheurs o\u00f9 le temps semble s’\u00eatre arr\u00eat\u00e9. Le centre de la tonnara est la Piazza Regina Margherita, domin\u00e9e par le b\u00e2timent principal et l’ancienne \u00e9glise de la tonnara, construite en gr\u00e8s. La cour arabe et les chalets de p\u00eacheurs qui entourent la place font \u00e9galement patrimoines historiques. <\/span>Ici, vous pouvez encore go\u00fbter et acheter des produits <\/span>d\u00e9riv\u00e9s du thon<\/b> (et plus encore) : poutargue (\u0153ufs de thon s\u00e9ch\u00e9s), <\/span>lattumi <\/span><\/i>(l’\u00e9quivalent masculin de la poutargue), salami de thon, buzzonaglia. Mais Marzamemi est aujourd’hui c\u00e9l\u00e8bre aussi et surtout pour sa <\/span>vie nocturne<\/b> estivale. Si vous avez faim, soif ou envie de danser, c’est l’endroit id\u00e9al.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Nous terminons notre tour en arrivant presque \u00e0 la pointe la plus au sud de la Sicile <\/span>: Portopalo di Capo Passero<\/b>. La <\/span>tonnara di Capo Passero<\/b> est un splendide monument d’arch\u00e9ologie industrielle. Bien qu’il soit ferm\u00e9 au public, il peut \u00eatre vu de l’ext\u00e9rieur dans toute sa majest\u00e9 : domin\u00e9 par le <\/span>ch\u00e2teau de Tafuri<\/b>, il s’avance sur une langue de terre s\u00e8che entour\u00e9e de mer. Une baignade dans ces eaux qui refl\u00e8tent les nombreuses couleurs des fonds marins est presque un must. Si vous \u00eates un adepte de la <\/span>plong\u00e9e libre<\/b>, vous \u00eates au bon endroit.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":50522,"template":"","categories":[1973,1981],"luogo":[2951],"stagione":[2061,2063],"class_list":["post-65043","itinerario","type-itinerario","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-en-plein-air-fr","category-territorio-fr","luogo-siracusa-fr","stagione-ete","stagione-printemps"],"acf":{"sottotitolo":"","titolo_paragrafo_1":"Dettaglio","paragrafo_1":"

Qu’est-ce que la “p\u00eache au thon de retour” ? Combien voulez-vous parier que vous y avez pens\u00e9 imm\u00e9diatement en lisant le titre ? Dissipons les doutes : il s’agit avant tout des ” <\/span>tonnare<\/b> “, d’anciens \u00e9tablissements o\u00f9, dans les si\u00e8cles pass\u00e9s, se d\u00e9roulait la <\/span>mattanza<\/span><\/i>, ou phase finale de la <\/span>capture des thons<\/b>. Pourquoi “<\/span>de retour<\/b>“? Pour comprendre cela, il faut prendre un peu de recul et expliquer le voyage que fait le thon rouge autour de la Sicile. <\/span><\/p>\n

Lorsqu’ils ont besoin de f\u00e9conder leurs \u0153ufs, ces poissons arrivent de l’Atlantique en M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e, attir\u00e9s par la chaleur et la salinit\u00e9 de ses eaux. Depuis des si\u00e8cles, l’homme a appris \u00e0 conna\u00eetre les habitudes du thon et a organis\u00e9 ses activit\u00e9s de p\u00eache en fonction de celles-ci.<\/span><\/p>\n","durata":"","distanza":"","difficolta":"","galleria":[{"ID":50526,"id":50526,"title":"X VENDICARI (5)","filename":"X-VENDICARI-5.jpg","filesize":599417,"url":"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/X-VENDICARI-5.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/route-du-thon-de-retour\/x-vendicari-5-2\/","alt":"","author":"31","description":"","caption":"ph Sessa","name":"x-vendicari-5-2","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":65043,"date":"2022-02-21 09:38:14","modified":"2025-08-01 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Pour comprendre cela, il faut prendre un peu de recul et expliquer le voyage que fait le thon rouge autour de la Sicile.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/route-du-thon-de-retour\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Route du thon de retour - Visit Sicily\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dissipons les doutes : il s'agit avant tout des " tonnare ", d'anciens \u00e9tablissements o\u00f9, dans les si\u00e8cles pass\u00e9s, se d\u00e9roulait la mattanza, ou phase finale de la capture des thons. Pourquoi "de retour"? Pour comprendre cela, il faut prendre un peu de recul et expliquer le voyage que fait le thon rouge autour de la Sicile.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/route-du-thon-de-retour\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Visit Sicily\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/visitsicily.info\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-11-17T15:49:10+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/03_MARZAMEMI-TONNO-scaled.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"2560\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1707\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@VisitSicilyOP\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Dur\u00e9e de lecture estim\u00e9e\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"4 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/route-du-thon-de-retour\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/route-du-thon-de-retour\/\",\"name\":\"Route du thon de retour - Visit Sicily\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/route-du-thon-de-retour\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/route-du-thon-de-retour\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/03_MARZAMEMI-TONNO-scaled.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2022-06-22T05:38:08+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2025-11-17T15:49:10+00:00\",\"description\":\"Dissipons les doutes : il s'agit avant tout des \\\" tonnare \\\", d'anciens \u00e9tablissements o\u00f9, dans les si\u00e8cles pass\u00e9s, se d\u00e9roulait la mattanza, ou phase finale de la capture des thons. 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