{"id":65031,"date":"2022-06-21T22:42:00","date_gmt":"2022-06-21T20:42:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/?post_type=itinerario&p=65031"},"modified":"2025-07-28T11:59:22","modified_gmt":"2025-07-28T09:59:22","slug":"visite-de-la-cuisine-vegetarienne-de-sicile","status":"publish","type":"itinerario","link":"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/visite-de-la-cuisine-vegetarienne-de-sicile\/","title":{"rendered":"VISITE DE LA CUISINE V\u00c9G\u00c9TARIENNE DE SICILE"},"content":{"rendered":"

C’est le cas du c\u00e9l\u00e8bre pour ainsi dire\u00a0 “<\/span>liccari a sarda<\/span><\/i>“, qui est rest\u00e9 dans la langue sicilienne pour indiquer une condition d’indigence ou de difficult\u00e9 (aujourd’hui, principalement \u00e9conomique), mais qui d\u00e9rive en fait d’un v\u00e9ritable l\u00e9chage de sardines : on pendait une sardine par la queue (au lustre ou \u00e0 une poutre de toit), on mangeait du pain et on donnait un coup de langue, pour avoir le go\u00fbt dans la bouche sans manger le poisson. Dans ces conditions, il fallait vivre, et <\/span>la faim stimule l’invention<\/b>. <\/span><\/p>\n

L\u00e9gumes, l\u00e9gumes secs, \u00e9pices, fromages.<\/b> Il existe d’innombrables plats v\u00e9g\u00e9tariens sur l’\u00eele. Certains sont pan-siciliens, ce qui signifie que vous pouvez les trouver partout sur l’\u00eele : <\/span>maccu ri favi<\/b><\/em> (cr\u00e8me de f\u00e8ves, avec des p\u00e2tes ou d’autres variantes), <\/span>p\u00e2tes aux tenerumi<\/b> (longues feuilles de courgette), <\/span>caponata, salade d’oranges<\/b> ; sans oublier les desserts : <\/span>granit\u00e9s, brioche \u00e0 la cr\u00e8me glac\u00e9e, p\u00e2tisseries aux amandes<\/b>… on risquerait de se perdre. Cet itin\u00e9raire nous permettra de d\u00e9guster des plats v\u00e9g\u00e9tariens typiques de la r\u00e9gion<\/strong> et de d\u00e9couvrir une autre Sicile \u00e0 appr\u00e9cier. Vous \u00eates pr\u00eat ?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Commen\u00e7ons par l’un des plats les plus c\u00e9l\u00e8bres : <\/span>la pasta alla norma<\/b>. Nous sommes \u00e0 <\/span>Catane<\/b>, la ville de Vincenzo Bellini. Qu’est-ce que \u00e7a a \u00e0 voir avec \u00e7a ? Selon certains, le nom d\u00e9rive de la Norma<\/em> du compositeur, car ces p\u00e2tes \u00e0 la sauce tomate, aux aubergines frites et \u00e0 la ricotta sal\u00e9e sont un v\u00e9ritable chef-d’\u0153uvre ! \u00c9videmment, les p\u00e2tes aux aubergines frites sont une autre pr\u00e9paration pan-sicilienne, c’est-\u00e0-dire que vous pouvez les trouver, avec de nombreuses variantes, partout. Mais si vous \u00eates \u00e0 Catane, vous ne pouvez pas ne pas l’essayer dans la ville qui lui a donn\u00e9 son nom. Avant de partir, essayez-le aussi en version “arancino” (oui, ici c’est masculin<\/em>, attention!): la classique boule de riz avec sauce aubergine et fromage !\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Allons \u00e0 la pointe sud, <\/span>entre les r\u00e9gions de Syracuse et de Ragusa<\/b>. Dans toute cette r\u00e9gion, vous pouvez d\u00e9guster la <\/span>stimpirata<\/i><\/b> (qui est \u00e0 l’origine une pr\u00e9paration pour la viande, faite de pommes de terre, de carottes et d’olives, saut\u00e9es avec de l’ail, de la menthe, de l’huile et du vinaigre) ou la <\/span>gghiotta<\/b><\/em> (dans sa forme la plus classique avec des pommes de terre, des oignons, des tomates et des poivrons l\u00e9g\u00e8rement aigre-doux). Dans les environs de <\/span>Modica<\/b> (Rosolini, Ispica, Pozzallo, Scicli, Ragusa), il faut go\u00fbter les <\/span>scacce<\/b><\/em> de Modica (ou Ragusa), les <\/span>mpanate<\/b><\/em>, les <\/span>buccateddi<\/b><\/em>: <\/span>rustici <\/span><\/i>(sortes de calzoni) cuits au four, avec diff\u00e9rentes farces et pr\u00e9parations (ricotta et oignon, tomate et oignon, tomate et persil, tomate et aubergine). Si vous \u00eates dans la r\u00e9gion, vous ne pouvez pas manquer l’occasion de go\u00fbter les p\u00e2tes fra\u00eeches faites avec de <\/span>la farine de caroube<\/b> \u00e0 Rosolini, de d\u00e9guster les d\u00e9riv\u00e9s de <\/span>carotte <\/b>et de <\/span>s\u00e9same<\/b> (slow food ) d<\/span>‘Ispica<\/b> et, surtout, le <\/span>cosacavaddu<\/i><\/b> (caciocavallo) de Ragusa. Enfin, il y a toujours de la place pour sa majest\u00e9 le <\/span>chocolat de Modica.<\/b>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Nous remontons maintenant vers le centre de l’\u00eele. Apr\u00e8s un bref arr\u00eat pour go\u00fbter les pr\u00e9parations \u00e0 base <\/span>d’oignons de la Giarratana<\/b>, un go\u00fbter s’impose dans la r\u00e9gion d’Enna avec le <\/span>piacentino ennese<\/b> (fromage de brebis additionn\u00e9 de safran et de poivre noir, qui le rend caract\u00e9ristiquement jaune et piquant) et du <\/span>pain del Dittaino<\/b> (un pain AOP fabriqu\u00e9 avec la semoule d’ancien bl\u00e9 dur). Dans cette zone centrale, entre Enna et Caltanissetta, <\/span>la frascatula <\/i><\/b>est \u00e9galement typique, une sorte de <\/span>polenta locale<\/b> : une pr\u00e9paration \u00e0 base de l\u00e9gumes (surtout des herbes sauvages : chicor\u00e9e, bourrache, blette, asperge, fenouil, amarelli, moutarde) et de farine. Essayez-la, bien s\u00fbr, comme ils le font avec tous les restes de polenta, \u00e9galement en version frite<\/strong>!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Revenons maintenant vers la c\u00f4te et approchons-nous d’<\/span>Agrigente<\/b>. <\/span>Le Macco di San Giuseppe<\/b> (soupe de l\u00e9gumes), le <\/span>pitaggio<\/i><\/b> (plat d’accompagnement \u00e0 base de f\u00e8ves, de petits pois et d’artichauts, pr\u00e9par\u00e9 comme une soupe, mais qui peut \u00e9galement servir d’accompagnement au riz ou de base pour une omelette ; il est \u00e9galement populaire dans la r\u00e9gion de Palerme), les <\/span>cuddiruni<\/i><\/b> di Siculiana (sorte de pizza farcie) : tous accompagn\u00e9s de <\/span>pain de Castelvetrano<\/b>, avec son irr\u00e9sistible cro\u00fbte croustillante, encore meilleur s’il est farci d’amandes.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Nous arrivons ensuite \u00e0 l’extr\u00e9mit\u00e9 occidentale de la Sicile, dans la r\u00e9gion de <\/span>Trapani<\/b>. Ici, le <\/span>couscous<\/b> est le plat principal (demandez un plat v\u00e9g\u00e9tarien, bien s\u00fbr !), accompagn\u00e9 de <\/span>busiate<\/b> (p\u00e2tes fris\u00e9es et filandreuses) <\/span>au pesto alla Trapanese<\/b> : un pesto qui d\u00e9rive du pesto g\u00e9nois (les G\u00e9nois l’emportaient dans leurs voyages et lorsqu’ils s’arr\u00eataient dans les ports siciliens), que les Trapanais ont modifi\u00e9 en y ajoutant des produits locaux typiques. Il suffit d’ajouter du basilic, des tomates, des amandes, du fromage pecorino et de l’ail rouge de Nubia (un pr\u00e9sidium de Slow Food) et… voil\u00e0<\/em>: le d\u00e9jeuner est servi. Les <\/span>Frascatole<\/i><\/b> sont \u00e9galement pr\u00e9par\u00e9es dans cette zone (et aussi \u00e0 Favignana), mais bien que le nom soit le m\u00eame que celles du centre de l’\u00eele, la recette est diff\u00e9rente! Le Frascatole est un d\u00e9riv\u00e9 du couscous et la tradition veut qu’il soit n\u00e9 dans les cuisines de la noblesse : les pauvres ramassaient les restes de couscous mal trait\u00e9s car trop grossiers et les combinaient avec des l\u00e9gumes. Aujourd’hui, ils sont pr\u00e9par\u00e9s en traitant intentionnellement la semoule pour obtenir un rendement plus grossier, puis assaisonn\u00e9s de sauce v\u00e9g\u00e9tale. Si vous \u00eates sous le soleil de <\/span>Pantelleria<\/b> et que vous voulez un plat frais, demandez <\/span>la sauce all\u2019ammogghiu<\/em><\/b>, un pesto de tomates avec de l’ail, du piment et du basilic. Que ce soit sur des p\u00e2tes, des bruschettas ou pour accompagner des fritures, vous serez surpris par sa bont\u00e9, sa fra\u00eecheur et sa simplicit\u00e9 !\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Venons-en au territoire de la capitale: <\/span>Palerme<\/b>. On pense imm\u00e9diatement <\/span>au pain, \u00e0 la panelle et au crocch\u00e9<\/b>, de fines cr\u00eapes \u00e0 base de farine de pois chiches pour la premi\u00e8re et des boulettes de pommes de terre frites pour la seconde, farcies de trois types de pain diff\u00e9rents : Mafalda, Scaletta et Focaccia (ou vastedda<\/em>). Mais aussi les <\/span>arancine<\/b> gourmet (ici f\u00ecmmine<\/em>, eh! C\u2019est-\u00e0-dire f\u00e9minin), invent\u00e9es plus r\u00e9cemment (vous en trouverez pour tous les go\u00fbts) et la <\/span>raschiatura<\/b> (cr\u00e9\u00e9e dans les fours pour \u00e9viter les g\u00e2chis : avec des restes de pois chiches pour la panelle et de pommes de terre pour le crocch\u00e9). Vous ne pouvez pas partir sans avoir go\u00fbt\u00e9 un plat originaire de Palerme (mais r\u00e9pandu dans toutes les Madonies) : le <\/span>cacio all’argentiera<\/b> (ou faux lapin), un <\/span>caciocavallo<\/b> frit dans une huile parfum\u00e9e \u00e0 l’ail, additionn\u00e9e de vinaigre et d’origan. Si, en revanche, vous vous trouvez \u00e0 <\/span>Ustica<\/b>, vous devez absolument go\u00fbter les plats \u00e0 base de la petite lentille<\/strong> de l’\u00eele, un pr\u00e9sidium du slow food.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Retournons \u00e0 l’est, dans la r\u00e9gion de <\/span>Messine<\/b>. En plus des d\u00e9licieux fromages et l\u00e9gumes \u00e0 l’huile des Nebrodi, vous devez essayer les <\/span>olives farcies \u00e0 la Messinoise<\/b> (avec une garniture de chapelure, de fromage pecorino sicilien, de c\u00e2pres de Pantelleria et de vinaigre de vin blanc), ou les p\u00e2tes <\/span>ncasciata \u00e0 la Messinoise<\/b>. Il existe de nombreuses variantes de ces p\u00e2tes cuites au four (demandez une version v\u00e9g\u00e9tarienne, bien s\u00fbr), mais les ingr\u00e9dients cl\u00e9s sont sans aucun doute <\/span>les aubergines frites <\/b>et le cacio cavallo.<\/b> Tout va tourner et cr\u00e9piter gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 la cuisson dans des casseroles bouillantes en terre cuite . Si, au contraire, vous profitez de la mer et de la nature des \u00eeles \u00c9oliennes, rafra\u00eechissez-vous avec une bonne assiette de <\/span>caserecce ai capperi<\/b> : des p\u00e2tes avec des tomates, des c\u00e2pres et surtout… des <\/span>cucunci<\/em>,<\/b> le fruit du c\u00e2pre<\/b> (ce que nous appelons “c\u00e2pre” n’est autre que le bouton de la fleur).<\/span><\/p>\n

Nous avons termin\u00e9 notre tour de l’\u00eele aux saveurs v\u00e9g\u00e9tariennes. Mais il ne s’agit que d’une petite s\u00e9lection et, si vous le souhaitez, d’une petite d\u00e9monstration de la vari\u00e9t\u00e9 de la cuisine traditionnelle sicilienne, adapt\u00e9e \u00e0 tous les palais et \u00e0 tous les besoins. Il ne vous reste plus qu’\u00e0 voyager, \u00e0 go\u00fbter et \u00e0 rechercher d’autres plats v\u00e9g\u00e9tariens. Assouvissez votre curiosit\u00e9 et… bon app\u00e9tit!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":50599,"template":"","categories":[1969,2089],"luogo":[2946,2943,2962,2973,2956,2949,2960,2951,2981],"stagione":[2060,2061,2062,2063],"class_list":["post-65031","itinerario","type-itinerario","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sapori-da-non-perdere-fr","category-sapori-pagina-principale-fr","luogo-agrigento-fr","luogo-caltanissetta-fr","luogo-catania-fr","luogo-eolie-fr","luogo-messina-fr","luogo-palermo-fr","luogo-ragusa-fr","luogo-siracusa-fr","luogo-trapani-fr","stagione-automne","stagione-ete","stagione-hiver","stagione-printemps"],"acf":{"sottotitolo":"","titolo_paragrafo_1":"Dettaglio","paragrafo_1":"

La vie est faite de choix, tu sais. Et un choix qui est devenu de plus en plus populaire ces derniers temps est celui des habitudes alimentaires v\u00e9g\u00e9tariennes. Que ce soit un <\/span>choix \u00e9thique<\/b> pour respecter les autres \u00eatres vivants, pour moins polluer la plan\u00e8te ou simplement par go\u00fbt, vous avez d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de ne pas manger de viande ou de poisson… mais vous avez r\u00e9serv\u00e9 des vacances en Sicile. Si vous pensez qu’ici, il n’y a que du poisson frais, des arancine\/arancini avec une sauce \u00e0 la viande et des abats de cuisine de rue, vous vous trompez : la tradition culinaire sicilienne<\/strong> d\u00e9rive d’une cuisine pauvre<\/strong> et les pauvres, dans le pass\u00e9, ne pouvaient se permettre ni viande ni poisson, sauf pour les grandes occasions. <\/span>\u00c0 tel point que, pour faire durer les ingr\u00e9dients dits “pr\u00e9cieux”, on allait jusqu’\u00e0 les rationner ou \u00e0 ne les go\u00fbter que sans les manger.<\/span><\/p>\n","durata":"","distanza":"","difficolta":"","galleria":[{"ID":49511,"id":49511,"title":"pasta alla norma","filename":"pasta-alla-norma.jpg","filesize":63856,"url":"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/pasta-alla-norma.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.visitsicily.info\/fr\/itinerario\/visite-de-la-cuisine-vegetarienne-de-sicile\/pasta-alla-norma-3\/","alt":"Pasta alla 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